Lamb shanks are often considered the “jewel” of the sheep when it comes to slow cooking. While they may appear tough and intimidating in their raw state, they possess a magical quality: with the right preparation, that connective tissue transforms into a rich, silky sauce, and the meat becomes so tender it literally falls away from the bone. Mastering the art of the lamb shank begins long before you turn on the stove. It starts with selection, trimming, and a series of flavor-building steps that elevate this humble cut into a restaurant-quality masterpiece.
Understanding the Cut
Before you start chopping herbs, it is essential to understand what you are working with. The shank is the lower section of the leg, just above the knee. Because this muscle works hard throughout the animal’s life, it is packed with collagen and connective tissue. This makes it unsuitable for quick cooking methods like grilling or searing alone. Instead, it requires a “low and slow” approach.
There are two main types of shanks: the fore-shanks (from the front legs) and the hind-shanks (from the back legs). Hind-shanks are generally larger and meatier, making them the preferred choice for a main course. Fore-shanks are smaller and often more economical, perfect for stews or smaller portions. When purchasing, look for shanks that are plump and have a healthy pinkish-red color with white, creamy fat.
Essential Trimming and Cleaning
Preparation begins with a bit of knife work. While much of the fat on a lamb shank will render down during the cooking process to provide flavor, excessive “silver skin” should be addressed. Silver skin is the thin, pearly-white membrane that doesn’t break down like fat does.
Removing Excess Fat and Membrane
Using a sharp paring knife or a boning knife, gently slide the blade under any thick patches of silver skin and trim them away. Be careful not to remove too much of the actual fat, as lamb fat carries the distinct “gamey” flavor that many enthusiasts love. If the shank has a very thick layer of hard white fat at the top, you can trim it down to about an eighth of an inch.
Cleaning the Bone
For a professional “French” look, many chefs choose to scrape the top of the bone clean. This is purely aesthetic but makes for a stunning presentation. Use the back of your knife to scrape away any bits of meat or membrane from the top two inches of the bone. Once cooked, the meat will shrink down, exposing a clean, white bone handle.
The Power of the Marinade
While lamb has a robust flavor on its own, a well-prepared marinade serves two purposes: it infuses the meat with aromatics and helps break down the tough fibers.
Dry Rubs vs. Wet Marinades
A dry rub consisting of kosher salt, cracked black pepper, garlic powder, and dried herbs like rosemary or oregano is excellent for creating a crust. However, for shanks, a wet marinade often works better. Consider a mixture of olive oil, crushed garlic, lemon zest, and fresh woody herbs.
If you have the time, marinate your shanks for at least 4 to 6 hours, or even overnight in the refrigerator. The salt in the marinade acts as a brine, drawing moisture into the cells of the meat, ensuring that even after hours of braising, the lamb remains succulent.
The Critical Step: Searing for Flavor
If there is one step you must never skip when preparing lamb shanks, it is the sear. This process, known as the Maillard reaction, creates a complex profile of flavors that cannot be achieved through boiling or steaming.
Achieving the Perfect Crust
Pat the shanks completely dry with paper towels before they hit the pan. Moisture is the enemy of a good sear; if the meat is damp, it will steam rather than brown. Season generously with salt and pepper right before cooking.
Heat a heavy-bottomed pot, such as a Dutch oven, over medium-high heat with a high-smoke-point oil like grapeseed or avocado oil. Place the shanks in the pan, being careful not to overcrowd them. Sear them on all sides until they develop a deep, mahogany-brown crust. This usually takes about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Once seared, remove the shanks and set them aside on a plate.
Building the Braising Base
The liquid you prepare to cook the shanks in is just as important as the meat itself. After removing the shanks from the pot, you will notice brown bits stuck to the bottom. These bits, called “fond,” are concentrated flavor gold.
Selecting Your Aromatics
Lower the heat to medium and add your mirepoix—a classic mixture of diced onions, carrots, and celery. Sauté these until they are softened and the onions are translucent. At this stage, add your “hard” aromatics: smashed garlic cloves, tomato paste, and perhaps a pinch of red pepper flakes or a cinnamon stick for warmth.
Deglazing the Pan
Pour in a liquid to scrape up the fond. Red wine is the traditional choice for lamb, specifically a bold variety like Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. If you prefer not to use alcohol, a high-quality beef or lamb stock with a splash of balsamic vinegar works wonders. Let the liquid simmer and reduce by half to concentrate the sugars and acids.
Final Assembly Before the Oven
Once your base is prepared, it is time to reunite the meat with the pot. Nestling the shanks back into the aromatic vegetables ensures they are surrounded by flavor.
Liquid Levels and Herbs
Add enough liquid (stock or a mix of stock and wine) so that the shanks are about two-thirds submerged. You do not want to cover them completely, as the exposed tops will continue to develop flavor through the indirect heat of the oven. Add fresh herb sprigs—rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves are the “holy trinity” for lamb.
The Importance of a Tight Seal
Before putting the pot in the oven, ensure you have a tight-fitting lid. If your lid is a bit loose, place a piece of parchment paper or aluminum foil over the pot before pressing the lid down. This creates a “cartouche” effect, trapping the steam and ensuring the environment remains moist throughout the long cook time.
Temperature and Timing
Preparation isn’t just about the knife and the pan; it’s about the strategy of the heat. Lamb shanks are best cooked at a low temperature to allow the collagen to melt slowly.
Set your oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Depending on the size of the shanks, they will typically take between 2.5 to 3.5 hours to reach perfection. You know they are ready when the meat is tender enough to be pierced with a fork with zero resistance, and the meat has started to pull back significantly from the bone.
FAQs
What is the best way to remove the gamey taste from lamb shanks?
The “gamey” flavor is concentrated in the fat. To mellow the flavor, trim away the heavy outer layers of fat and soak the shanks in milk or a mild salt brine for an hour before seasoning. Additionally, using acidic ingredients like lemon juice, vinegar, or dry red wine in your braising liquid helps balance the richness of the fat.
Do I need to bring lamb shanks to room temperature before cooking?
Yes, it is highly recommended to take the shanks out of the refrigerator about 30 to 45 minutes before searing. If the meat is ice-cold when it hits the hot pan, the muscle fibers can seize up, and the internal temperature will take longer to stabilize, leading to uneven cooking.
Can I prepare lamb shanks in a slow cooker instead of an oven?
Absolutely. Follow all the preparation steps exactly—trimming, seasoning, and especially the searing. After deglazing the pan, transfer everything into your slow cooker. Cook on Low for 8 to 10 hours or on High for 4 to 6 hours. The results are very similar, though the oven provides a slightly better reduction of the sauce.
Why is my lamb shank still tough after three hours?
If the meat is still tough, it usually means the collagen hasn’t finished breaking down yet. This is a common issue if the cooking temperature was too low or if the shanks were particularly large. Simply put the lid back on and continue cooking in 30-minute increments. Lamb shanks are very forgiving and are much harder to overcook than to undercook.
Should I salt the lamb shanks the night before?
Salting the night before (dry brining) is an excellent preparation technique. It allows the salt to penetrate deep into the muscle tissue, seasoning the meat from the inside out and helping it retain moisture during the long braising process. Just be sure to pat the meat dry again before searing, as the salt will draw out some surface moisture overnight.