When you walk into the meat department during the holidays, you are often faced with a choice between two main cuts of bone-in ham: the shank and the butt. While the shank is often praised for its classic “picture-perfect” look, the butt portion—the upper part of the pig’s hind leg—is the secret favorite of seasoned home cooks. It is leaner, richer in flavor, and provides more meat-to-bone ratio than its counterpart. Learning how to cook butt portion of ham properly ensures a centerpiece that is tender, juicy, and packed with savory goodness.
Understanding the Butt Portion Cut
Before you preheat your oven, it is important to understand what makes the butt portion unique. Because this cut comes from the hip area, it contains the complex hip bone structure. This can make carving a bit more of a puzzle than the straight-boned shank, but the trade-off is the quality of the meat. The butt portion is often more tender and has a deeper, more concentrated pork flavor.
Most ham butt portions sold in grocery stores are “city hams,” meaning they have been wet-cured and fully cooked or smoked before they reach the shelf. Your job in the kitchen is not necessarily to “cook” the meat in the traditional sense, but to reheat it gently so it stays moist while developing a beautiful, caramelized exterior.
Preparing Your Ham for the Oven
Preparation is the foundation of a great meal. For a standard 7 to 10-pound butt portion, you should start by removing the ham from the refrigerator about 1 to 2 hours before cooking. Bringing the meat closer to room temperature allows for more even heating, preventing the outside from drying out before the center is warm.
Once the ham is unwrapped, give it a quick rinse under cold water to remove excess brine and pat it dry with paper towels. If your ham has a thick layer of fat on the top, use a sharp knife to score it in a diamond pattern. Cut about a quarter-inch deep; this allows your glaze to penetrate the meat and helps the fat render into a crispy, flavorful crust.
The Low and Slow Roasting Method
The biggest mistake people make when cooking a butt portion is using a temperature that is too high. High heat tightens the muscle fibers and squeezes out the juices, leaving you with a dry, leathery dinner. To keep the ham succulent, aim for a low oven temperature of 325°F.
Place the ham in a heavy roasting pan. For a butt portion, it is usually best to place it flat-side down. To create a moist environment, pour about a cup of liquid into the bottom of the pan. Water works fine, but apple juice, pineapple juice, or even a dry hard cider can add a subtle layer of aromatic flavor to the steam.
Protecting the Moisture
Covering the ham is non-negotiable if you want a juicy result. Wrap the entire roasting pan tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil. This traps the steam inside, essentially braising the ham in its own juices and the added liquid. This step is what separates a mediocre ham from a professional-grade roast.
Calculating Cooking Time
Since most butt portions are pre-cooked, you are aiming for an internal temperature rather than a specific duration. However, for planning purposes, you should estimate about 15 to 20 minutes per pound. If you are cooking an 8-pound ham at 325°F, expect it to take between 2 and 2.5 hours.
The only way to be certain is to use a meat thermometer. You are looking for an internal temperature of 140°F for a fully cooked ham that you are just reheating. If you happened to purchase a “cook-before-eating” ham, you must reach an internal temperature of 145°F and then allow it to rest.
Crafting the Perfect Glaze
The glaze is where you can let your creativity shine. A good glaze needs a balance of sweetness, acidity, and spice. The sugar in the glaze is vital because it caramelizes under the heat, creating that iconic sticky-sweet crust.
Common bases for a butt portion glaze include:
- Brown sugar, honey, maple syrup, or apricot preserves (for sweetness)
- Dijon mustard, apple cider vinegar, or even a splash of bourbon (for acidity/balance)
- Ground cloves, cinnamon, or ginger (for warmth)
Applying the Glaze and Finishing
Do not apply the glaze at the beginning of the cooking process. Because of the high sugar content, a glaze will burn if left in the oven for two hours. Instead, wait until the ham has about 20 to 30 minutes left of cooking time.
Remove the ham from the oven and carefully take off the foil. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F. Generously brush the glaze over the scored fat and the sides of the ham. Return it to the oven uncovered. Baste the ham every 10 minutes with more glaze or the pan juices until the exterior is bubbly, dark golden brown, and slightly charred at the edges.
The Importance of Resting
Once the ham reaches the target temperature and the glaze looks perfect, remove it from the oven. This is the most difficult part: you must let it rest. Transfer the ham to a cutting board and tent it loosely with foil. Let it sit for at least 15 to 20 minutes.
Resting allows the muscle fibers to relax and reabsorb the juices. If you slice into it immediately, all that moisture will run out onto the board, leaving the meat dry. A rested ham is much easier to carve and significantly more tender.
Carving the Butt Portion
Carving a butt portion requires a bit more navigation than a shank because of the T-shaped hip bone. The best approach is to cut large sections of meat away from the bone first. Use a long, sharp carving knife to slice along the bone to release the major muscle groups. Once you have large boneless pieces, you can easily slice them against the grain into the thickness of your choosing.
Serving Suggestions and Side Dishes
A rich, glazed butt portion ham pairs beautifully with sides that offer a bit of contrast. Consider serving it with:
- Creamy mashed potatoes
- Roasted Brussels sprouts with balsamic glaze
- A bright, citrusy cranberry sauce
- Glazed carrots
- A classic sweet potato casserole
Storing and Using Leftovers
One of the best parts of cooking a butt portion is the leftovers. Leftover ham can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months. The bone itself is a culinary treasure—save it to make:
- Split pea soup
- Ham and bean stew
- To flavor a pot of collard greens
The deep, smoky marrow in the hip bone provides a richness that you simply can’t get from a store-bought stock.
FAQs
What is the difference between a ham butt and a ham shank?
The butt portion is cut from the upper part of the leg and is meatier and leaner, though it has a more complex bone structure. The shank portion is the lower part of the leg; it is easier to carve and has a classic look, but it usually contains more connective tissue and slightly less meat.
Should I cook the ham with the fat side up or down?
When roasting a butt portion, it is generally recommended to place it fat side up or on its side if it has a flat face. This allows the fat to melt and baste the meat as it cooks. If the ham has been sliced flat on one side, placing it flat-side down helps it stay stable in the pan and retains moisture.
How do I prevent the ham from becoming salty?
Most hams are cured in salt, so they are naturally savory. To reduce the saltiness, you can soak the ham in cold water for several hours before cooking, changing the water once or twice. Additionally, using a sweet glaze helps balance the natural salt profile of the meat.
Can I cook a butt portion ham in a slow cooker?
Yes, a butt portion can be cooked in a large slow cooker. Place the ham in the crock, add a half-cup of liquid, and cook on low for 4 to 6 hours. You can still glaze it at the end by transferring it to an oven for a few minutes under the broiler to caramelize the sugar.
Do I need to add water to the roasting pan?
While not strictly required, adding water, juice, or wine to the bottom of the pan creates a moist environment. This steam prevents the outer layers of the ham from becoming tough or “jerky-like” during the long reheating process. Just an inch of liquid in the pan makes a significant difference in the final texture.