The arrival of cherry season is one of the most anticipated moments for any fruit lover. Those deep red, glossy jewels are a staple of summer, offering a perfect balance of tartness and sweetness. While eating them fresh by the handful is a delight, their season is notoriously short. Learning how to make cherry jam is the ultimate way to capture that fleeting summer essence and preserve it in a jar to enjoy on a cold winter morning.
Homemade cherry jam is leagues apart from the store-bought varieties. When you make it yourself, you control the sugar content, the texture, and the quality of the fruit. There are no artificial thickeners or mysterious preservatives—just the pure, concentrated flavor of sun-ripened cherries. Whether you are a seasoned canner or a complete beginner, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create a professional-quality preserve in your own kitchen.
Choosing the Best Cherries for Your Jam
The secret to a world-class jam starts with the fruit. Not all cherries are created equal, and the variety you choose will significantly impact the final flavor profile of your preserve.
Sweet Cherries vs. Tart Cherries
Sweet cherries, such as Bing or Rainier, are the most common varieties found in grocery stores. They produce a jam that is dark, rich, and deeply sweet. Because they have a lower acidity level, you often need to add a bit more lemon juice to ensure the jam sets properly and has a bright flavor.
Tart cherries, also known as sour cherries or Montmorency cherries, are the gold standard for many preserve enthusiasts. They have a higher acid content and a more complex, tangy flavor that stands up beautifully to the sugar used in canning. If you can find these at a local farmers’ market, they make an incredible jam. Many people choose to use a mix of both sweet and tart cherries to get the best of both worlds.
Selecting Ripe Fruit
When selecting your fruit, look for cherries that are firm, plump, and have their stems still attached. The stems should be green and flexible, not brittle or brown. Avoid any fruit with soft spots, mold, or shriveled skin. While the cooking process softens the fruit, starting with bruised cherries can lead to a jam that spoils faster or has an “off” fermented taste.
Essential Equipment for Jam Making
You don’t need a professional laboratory to make jam, but having the right tools makes the process much safer and more efficient.
The Preserving Pan
A heavy-bottomed pot is essential. Jam reaches very high temperatures, and a thin pot will likely result in scorched fruit at the bottom. A wide, shallow pan is better than a tall, narrow one because it allows moisture to evaporate more quickly, helping the jam reach its setting point faster without overcooking the fruit.
Pitting Tools and Prep Gear
Pitting cherries is the most time-consuming part of the process. While you can use a straw or a small knife, a dedicated cherry pitter is a worthwhile investment if you plan on making more than one batch. You will also need a kitchen scale for accurate measurements, as professional jam making relies on ratios rather than volume.
Jars and Sterilization
You will need glass canning jars with two-piece lids (a flat disc and a screw band). Before you begin, these must be sterilized. You can do this by washing them in hot soapy water and then placing them in an oven at 225 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes, or by boiling them in water for 10 minutes. Leave them in the warm environment until you are ready to fill them; pouring hot jam into a cold jar can cause the glass to shatter.
The Chemistry of Jam: Sugar, Acid, and Pectin
Understanding the science of jam helps you troubleshoot issues like “runny jam” or “tough fruit.”
The Role of Sugar
Sugar isn’t just for sweetness; it’s a preservative. It binds with the water molecules in the fruit, making them unavailable for bacteria to grow. It also helps the pectin (the natural thickening agent) to form a mesh that creates the gel structure. Most traditional recipes call for a ratio of about 60% to 75% sugar by weight relative to the fruit.
Acid and Pectin
Cherries are naturally moderate in pectin. To get a good set, you almost always need to add lemon juice. The acid in the lemon juice reacts with the pectin and the sugar to create the “gel” effect. Without enough acid, your jam might remain a syrup no matter how long you boil it. If you are using very sweet cherries, you might even consider adding a box of commercial pectin to guarantee a firm set.
Step-by-Step Guide to Making Cherry Jam
Now that the preparations are complete, it is time to start cooking. This process requires your full attention, as the transition from “perfectly set” to “burnt” can happen in a matter of seconds.
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Preparing the Fruit
Start by washing the cherries thoroughly in cold water. Remove the stems and pits. Some people prefer to leave the cherries whole for a chunky “conserve” style jam, while others prefer to pulse them briefly in a food processor for a smoother spread. A middle-ground approach is to chop half the cherries and leave the other half whole.
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Macerating the Cherries
Place your prepared cherries in your large pot and toss them with the measured sugar and lemon juice. Let them sit for about 30 to 60 minutes. This process, called maceration, draws the juices out of the fruit and creates a syrup. This helps the cherries keep their shape during cooking and prevents them from becoming tough.
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The Boiling Phase
Place the pot over medium heat and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Once the sugar is no longer grainy, increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a full rolling boil—a boil that cannot be stirred down.
As the jam boils, a foam might form on the surface. This is just air trapped in the pectin and is perfectly safe to eat, but it can look unappealing in the jar. You can skim it off with a spoon or stir in a small half-teaspoon of butter to help the foam dissipate.
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Testing for the Set
The jam needs to reach a temperature of 220 degrees Fahrenheit at sea level to set. However, a thermometer isn’t always perfectly accurate due to altitude or the specific sugar concentration. The most reliable test is the “Chilled Plate Test.”
Before you start cooking, place a few small saucers in the freezer. When you think the jam is ready, place a small spoonful onto a frozen plate and let it sit for thirty seconds. Push the edge of the jam with your finger. If the surface wrinkles, it is ready. If your finger slides right through it, boil it for another two minutes and test again.
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Canning and Storage
Once the jam has reached the setting point, remove it from the heat. Let it sit for about five minutes before jarring. This allows the fruit to settle so it doesn’t all float to the top of the jar.
Filling the Jars
Using a funnel, pour the hot jam into your sterilized jars, leaving about a quarter-inch of space at the top (this is called “headspace“). Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean, damp cloth to ensure no sticky residue interferes with the seal. Place the lids on and screw the bands until they are “finger-tight“—meaning you shouldn’t force them too hard.
The Water Bath Method
For long-term shelf storage, you must process the jars in a boiling water bath. Lower the filled jars into a large pot of boiling water, ensuring they are covered by at least an inch of water. Boil for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the jars and place them on a towel-lined counter. Do not touch them for 24 hours. You will likely hear a satisfying “ping” sound as the vacuum seal forms.
Checking the Seal
After 24 hours, check the lids. They should be curved slightly inward and should not move when pressed. Any jars that didn’t seal should be placed in the refrigerator and eaten within a few weeks. Sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to a year.
Flavor Variations to Try
Once you have mastered the basic recipe, you can start experimenting with different flavor profiles to make your cherry jam unique.
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Boozy Cherry Jam
Adding a splash of alcohol near the end of the cooking process can add incredible depth. Bourbon and cherry are a classic pairing, offering notes of vanilla and oak. Alternatively, Kirsch (a cherry brandy) enhances the natural fruit flavor, while Amaretto adds a lovely almond undertone.
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Spiced Cherry Jam
Warm spices can turn a summer jam into a cozy winter treat. Try adding a cinnamon stick, a few whole cloves, or a star anise to the pot while the jam simmers. Just remember to remove the whole spices before jarring. For a more modern twist, a teaspoon of freshly grated ginger or a pinch of black pepper can provide a sophisticated heat that pairs well with cheese.
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Herb-Infused Preserves
For a savory-leaning jam, consider infusing it with herbs. Fresh thyme or rosemary adds an earthy, aromatic quality that makes cherry jam the perfect accompaniment for roasted meats or a charcuterie board. Simply tie the herbs in a bundle of cheesecloth and let them steep in the boiling jam, removing them once the flavor is to your liking.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced cooks can run into trouble. Here are a few things to keep in mind.
Using too little sugar is a common mistake for those trying to be healthy. However, sugar is structural in jam. If you reduce it too much, the jam won’t set, and it won’t be shelf-stable. If you want a low-sugar jam, you must use a specific “low-methoxyl” pectin designed for that purpose.
Another mistake is doubling the recipe. It is tempting to do one giant batch, but jam requires rapid evaporation. When the pot is too full, it takes much longer to reach the setting point, which results in the fruit breaking down too much and the sugar caramelizing, leading to a darker, “cooked” flavor rather than a fresh fruit flavor. It is always better to do two separate medium batches than one massive one.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make cherry jam with frozen cherries?
Yes, you can absolutely use frozen cherries. In fact, frozen cherries are often pitted and frozen at the peak of ripeness, making them a great option when fresh cherries are out of season. Just be sure to thaw them first and include any liquid that accumulates during thawing in your cooking pot, as that liquid contains a lot of the fruit’s natural pectin and flavor.
Why is my cherry jam too runny?
If your jam didn’t set, it usually means it didn’t reach a high enough temperature, or there wasn’t enough acid/pectin in the mix. You can try to re-cook it by adding a little more lemon juice and bringing it back to a boil, or you can simply embrace it as a delicious cherry syrup for pancakes, waffles, or ice cream.
Do I have to peel the cherries?
No, you do not need to peel cherries. The skins are very thin and soften significantly during the cooking process. They provide much of the color and fiber for the jam. The only part of the cherry you must remove is the pit and the stem.
How long does homemade cherry jam last?
Properly canned and sealed jars stored in a cool, dark place will last for 12 to 18 months. Once a jar is opened, it should be stored in the refrigerator and is best consumed within 3 to 4 weeks. Always check for any signs of mold or unusual odors before consuming.
Can I make this jam without a water bath?
If you intend to store the jam on a shelf at room temperature, the water bath is a necessary safety step to kill any potential bacteria and ensure a vacuum seal. However, if you don’t want to do a water bath, you can make “refrigerator jam.” Simply pour the hot jam into clean jars, let them cool, and put them straight into the fridge. Refrigerator jam will last for about a month.